Today we’re going to be constructing our bodice shell and lining, as two separate pieces.
Sew the darts in the bodice shell front: there are two bust darts and two waist darts. The waist darts are shaped to give a good fit under the bust; however, if you have a low or full-at-the-bottom bust shape, you can narrow them down to more traditional triangular darts (always worth making a muslin to check!). Press the bust darts upwards, and the waist darts towards the center.
Now we’re going to sew the front waistband to the bodice. Place the waistband on top of the bodice, right sides together, and pin, matching up the notches (double check you’re doing it the correct way up – the notches will help). Sew at a 1/2″ (12mm) seam allowance, and press the seam towards the waistband. It’s up to you whether you want to finish this seam and others in the bodice – they will be enclosed eventually but if your fabric frays a lot it’s never a bad idea to finish everything regardless.
Now we’re going to repeat the same steps with the back bodice piece. Sew up the waist and shoulder darts first:
Then attach the back waistband pieces (again, make sure they’re the right way up, and the right angled end is aligned with the center back).
Place the back bodice pieces on top of the front bodice piece, right sides together and pin at the shoulders. Sew the shoulders, and press the seam towards the back.
Repeat all the steps above with the bodice lining pieces (except, press the shoulder seam forward so the shell and lining seam allowances are offset) so you have an identical bodice in the lining fabric like so:
And we’re done for today! Next we’re going to do a bit of magic attaching the bodice shell to the lining. Any questions today?