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March 24, 2014

Flatlining Tutorial: Finish underlining and seams in one (a.k.a. “flatlining”)

I discovered a great technique for finishing seams and underlining in one – it ends up looking like a cross between a French Seam and a Hong Kong finish.  It’s a perfect solution for silk or other fabrics prone to fraying, like my recent silk faille Simplicity 2343. I’m not sure from where it originated, but there’s a text tutorial on Pattern Review and a few bloggers have written about it before. However, I struggled to understand the instructions without some photos, so I thought I would put together this little tutorial for you! Hope you find it useful. The instructions below assume that your patterns has a 5/8 inch seam allowance.
How to do flatlining by Cashmerette

1. Cut your underlining 1/2 inch wider than the fashion fabric on each vertical seam (i.e. the whole piece will be 1 inch wider).

 

2. Sew the vertical edges, right sides together, using a 1/4 inch seam. Because the underlining is bigger, it won’t sit flush to the fashion fabric.

 

3. Cut the seams allowances down to 1/8 inch. I highly recommend the tip Amy learned at a sewing expo recently – use your serger without needles in to quickly and cleanly trim the seams.
4. Turn inside out (i.e. wrong sides together). Press the underlining away from the fashion fabric, and then fold the underlining around the edge of the fashion fabric to the back side. Note that the fashion fabric *doesn’t* fold, but rather, the underlining wraps around it. You can stitch in the ditch along the fashion/underlining seam – I didn’t do this for my silk skirt and I haven’t had any problems, but depending on the type of fabric you’re using you may want to do it.

 

5. Now treat the fashion fabric and underlining as one piece! When you sew it together, you’ll have lovely 1/8 inch wrapped edges. Remember that you trimmed 1/8 inch off the fashion fabric, so sew up the vertical seams with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.

 

 

Et voila! Give it a try and let me know if it works for you.
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Also, the giveaway has closed! ChriChri congrats, you won the Liberty buttons and bias tape! Please contact me so I can send it to you.

 


Cashmerette
June 16, 2011

Baby Dress Ahoy!

Gosh, it’s been a while.It appears that I only find the motivation to sew in the summer, and lo and behold, the sun came out and I’m fired up once more! Well hurray for that. And even more so, now I’ve discovered the fantabulous new sewing shop, Gather Here, in Central Square. One word: heaven. Oh, the fabrics! Oh, the notions!It was in this dreamy shop that I found two new projects, for the birthdays of my 31 year old best friend from high school, and my 3 year old friend, who happens to be the daughter of my good mate from Geneva (who’s now in D.C… via London. It’s a long story).

So: the first is in the mail, and therefore cannot be revealed until the big day (June 27th!). However, I believe the 3 year old isn’t quite into blog-reading yet, so I can exclusively reveal the creative process without fear of birthday disappointment.

Let’s start by getting overly excited about this:


*Faint*

Now, let’s consider this for a minute:

*Swoon*

Clearly a match made in heaven. It is theoretically only “one scissors” difficulty, but it will involve button holes, so wish me luck. This evening, I started on the upper bodice part, in a bright yellow cotton which matches the whales nicely. I followed the wise advice of Jenny K and obsessively ironed every single piece, and I went reaaaallly slowly. Which is very difficult when you’re over-excited.

So, night one: bodice made!

And for those of you with eye for seams, I have to do a small bit of showing off here:

Watch this space for the next installment: whale-skirt!


Cashmerette

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