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December 5, 2016

Turner Sewalong Day 5: Finishing Touches

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Today is the last day of our Turner Dress sewalong and all that’s left is the hemming and the twirling!

Let’s start by hemming the sleeves. Turn the hem under by 1” to the inside of the sleeve. If you have an especially shifty knit, this is a good time for trusty dusty Wonder Tape! Otherwise, pin from the outside.

Topstitch around the outside of the sleeve catching the hem that you folded under using a twin needle, a small zigzag stitch, or a coverstitch machine.

Repeat these steps for the other sleeve.

For the skirt, repeat the same hemming steps, but turn up the hem 1.5” on the skirt.

Give the hems and the rest of the dress a good press and you’re done!

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Now pop on your new Turner Dress and share it with us using #TurnerDress on social media! We can’t wait to see how you style this versatile dress!


Cashmerette
December 2, 2016

Turner Sewalong Day 4: Sewing and Attaching the Skirt

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Welcome back everyone! Our Turner Dresses are over halfway done and today we’ll assemble and attach the skirt.

Start by laying the skirt front on the skirt back, right sides together, and pin up both side seams.

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Sew the side seams, finish the seams if necessary, and press the seam allowances towards the skirt back.

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Turn the skirt inside out, place the right-side out bodice inside the skirt, and line up the waist.

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Pin the bodice and skirt together at the waist, matching the center fronts, center backs, and side seams.

We’re going to use a piece of clear elastic to stabilize this seam and support the weight of the skirt. Take a length of clear elastic and stretch it out several times. This ensures that the elastic won’t relax once it’s sewn. Cut a piece the same length as your waistline, not any shorter. Pin it to the skirt side of the waistline. Now sew through all four layers: elastic, skirt, bodice shell, and bodice lining.

Finish this seam if necessary and press the seam allowance down towards the skirt.

For our final installment, we’ll be hemming the sleeves and skirt and trying on our completed dresses!


Cashmerette
November 30, 2016

Turner Sewalong Day 3: Sewing Sleeves and Side Seams

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Today, we’ll attach the sleeves to the Turner Dress and finish up the bodice.

We’ll be setting the sleeves in flat, which is the easiest method when you are working with a knit or don’t have much sleeve cap ease to distribute.

Starting with one sleeve, make sure the double notched side of the sleeve is facing the back of the bodice and lay the sleeve on top of the bodice, right sides together, lining up the center notch with the shoulder seam.

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Next, match up the ends of the sleeves and the bodice as well as the notches on either side of the armhole and pin. You’ll have to shape the armhole gently to accommodate the sleeve.

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Sew the sleeve seam with the bodice side facing up. This allows the feed dogs, which move the fabric on the bottom more quickly, to help ease the sleeve into the armhole. You’ll also need to stretch the armhole gently as you sew. Go slowly, and make sure there aren’t any tucks or folds after you’ve sewn the seam.

Finish the seam if your knit frays, and press the seam allowance towards the sleeve. Repeat these steps with the other sleeve.

Now, let’s wrap up the assembly of our bodice. Lay out the bodice, right sides together, lining up the side seams and sleeve seams. Pin along the side of the bodice, making sure the underarm seam matches up. Sew the side seam and sleeve seam at once, starting at the waist, pivoting at the underarm, and ending at the wrist.

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Finish your seam if necessary and, using a sleeve roll or a rolled up towel, press the seam allowance towards the back.

Repeat these steps with the other bodice side seam and sleeve seam.

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Finally, turn the bodice right side out and baste the shell and lining together at the waist using a ¼” seam allowance on your sewing machine.

That’s it for today! Next time, we’ll sew and attach the skirt.


Cashmerette
November 28, 2016

Turner Sewalong Day 2: Assembling the Bodice

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Today we’ll assemble the fully lined bodice of the Turner Dress. The lining makes this so comfortable to wear and gives the bodice a little extra structure to support the weight of the skirt. You can either line the bodice in the same fabric or use a similar to slightly lighter weight knit for the lining. (For this sewalong, I’m using a solid fabric for the lining; it is a nice weight and helps to see what I’m doing!)

If you’re using a light-weight knit, you may want to fuse strips of interfacing to the neckline of the shell fabric on the wrong side.

Start by trimming the neckline seam allowance of your lining pieces by 1/8”. Do this for both the front and back bodice lining pieces. This allows the lining to stay neatly tucked inside the bodice when you’re wearing the dress.

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Pin the front and back bodices together at the shoulder seams and sew using a 3/8” seam allowance. Finish the seams if your knit frays and you’re using a sewing machine, and press the seam allowance towards the back. Repeat these steps for the bodice lining as well.

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NB: For the next step, you’ll need to use a sewing machine, even if you’re sewing the rest of the dress on a serger.

Place the bodice lining on top of the bodice shell, right sides together, and pin around the whole neckline.

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Using a straight stitch on your sewing machine, sew the bodice shell and lining together at the neckline, pivoting carefully at the point of the V. To get the V-neck to lie flat, carefully clip the seam allowance to but not through the stitch line at the point of the V.

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To ensure the lining stays nicely tucked away, we’re going to understitch along the neckline. This is the fiddliest bit of this whole garment! Turn the bodice right sides out and spread the shell and lining apart.

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Make sure the neckline seam allowance is on the lining side and carefully stitch, using a straight stitch, 1/8” from the neckline seam on the lining side, catching the seam allowance underneath.

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 Press the neckline seam, while gently rolling the lining to the inside.

 

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For our final step today, baste the lining and shell together at the armholes at ¼” seam allowance with wrong sides together.

 

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Next time, we’ll attach the sleeves and sew the side seams of the bodice!


Cashmerette
November 23, 2016

Turner Sewalong Day 1: Preparation

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Today we’re going choose our size, grade between sizes if necessary, and get our pattern and fabric all ready to go, so we can start sewing our Turner Dresses next time!

The first decision to make when sewing a Turner Dress is which size to choose. Thanks to the three cup sizes it’s more likely that you’ll fit in a “straight” Cashmerette Pattern than many other companies, but of course we all vary and chances are you may not be perfectly in one size. The good news is that sewing gives you tons of flexibility, and it’s easy to grade between sizes.

How to choose your size

There are two measurement charts: one is the Body Measurement chart, and the other is the Finished Garment chart. The Body Measurement chart helps you choose your size based on what numbers you get when you measure your body with a tape measure – it has numbers for your bust (around the fullest part), waist and hip. The Finished Garment chart shows you the size of the actual sewn garment – the difference between that and the Body Measurement chart is called “ease”, and it’s the amount of extra room in the garment that the designer recommends for the clothes to fit well and allow movement.

Generally, you want to start by comparing your measurement with the body measurement chart. However, if your measurements are between sizes you can take a look at the Finished Garment chart to see if you can fit in just one. The Turner Dress is designed with negative ease at the bust, no ease at the waist, and a lot of positive ease at the hips, so if you fit into the size 12 bust and waist but your hip is a bit bigger, say 45″, you’ll probably still fit in the size 12 just fine! The most important measurements for this dress are the bust and waist.

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As with all Cashmerette Patterns, the best bet is to start with your bust measurement – you should use your full bust measurement, which is around the fullest part of your bust. Because of the cup sizing, you may find you could fit in two different bust sizes – in which case, you want to pick the overall size that’s closest to your waist size. So for instance, if your bust is 44″, you could theoretically be a 14 G/H or a 16 C/D. Which one should you pick? Take a look at the waist measurement – if yours is closer to 34″ (size 14), then go with the 14 G/H. If yours is closer to 36″ (size 16), then go with the 16 C/D.

Don’t fret if the cup size doesn’t match up with your bra size – there is so much variation in bra sizing that it’s not possible to perfectly line them up. Use your actual bust measurement and you’ll be fine.

Grading Between Sizes

The Turner Dress is a super easy pattern to grade! Let’s say your bust measurement is 48″, your waist measurement is 42″, and your hip measurement is 50″. Based on these measurements, you’d want the 18 G/H bust, a size 22 waist, and a size 20 hip.

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To grade between the 18 bust and the 22 waist, you’ll want to start just below the seam allowance under the arm on the side seam of the front bodice piece and grade to just above the seam allowance on the waist seam. You can start by connecting these two points with a straight line and then base the curve off that.

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Next, you’ll want to repeat these steps with the back bodice piece. One thing to check before you cut your pattern pieces out is that the side seams are the same length. Walk your ruler along the new line on both the front and the back and either add or take away curve to make the measurements the same. I usually adjust the curve on the back piece to accommodate the length I’ve established on the front piece.

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So now, our waist is the size 22. Because the hip fit in this pattern isn’t essential, I would cut a straight size 22 for the skirt. If you try it on and the ease around the hips feels too much, you can always take in the skirt on the side seams.

Preparing Pattern and Fabric

Now that we’ve chosen our size and graded if necessary, it’s time to prepare our pattern and fabric so that we’ll be all ready to sew next time!

Here’s your checklist:

  • Wash and dry your fabric, to make sure it’s pre-shrunk and you’re not going to get any nasty surprises later! This is especially important with knits. They can shrink an incredible amount!
  • Press your fabric so it’s nice and flat. Check to see if you get any iron shine when you press the right side. If so, you’ll want to use a press cloth when pressing between steps.
  • If you’re using a printed pattern, either cut or trace off your pattern pieces – if you’re making adjustments or are going to make any dresses in other sizes in the future, I definitely recommend tracing.
  • If you’re using a PDF pattern, you’ll need to print and assemble it. Here are some pointers to help you.
  • Transfer all the markings to the fabric. For the notches, make a little snip into the fabric, within the seam allowance (so no more than 1/4″/6mm).
  • Cut all pieces, following the layout diagrams in the pattern.

Next time, we’ll assemble the bodice of our Turner Dress!


Cashmerette
November 21, 2016

Turner Dress Fabric Ideas

The Turner Dress is the perfect canvas to play with fun fabric! It can be tricky to find the right kind of knits online so we’ve pulled together some fun Turner Dress fabric ideas for you!

Equally suited to solids or prints, your look is really up to you! Keep in mind, because of the flare on the skirt, stripes will not stay horizontal across the whole skirt. You can see what it looks like on my Turner in buffalo plaid that I shared on Instagram. Without further ado, FABRIC!

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A fun print on a classic silhouette is one of my favorite twists. How neat is this “subtle” panda print??

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Want a classic Turner Dress in a luxurious fabric? Merino jersey is hard to beat and this is the fabric we used for the solid cover dress. These double knits would also make squishy and luxe Turners, but you’d want to use a lighter knit to line the bodice so it doesn’t become too bulky.

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Botanical and floral prints are a perfect match for this silhouette! We love these modern takes.

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Rich, dark, classic prints are perfect for dressing up or down. These would be equally fun with a pair of fancy heels for night or a brightly colored cardigan for day.

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Nothing wrong with a closet full of solid Turner Dresses either! Maybe you need a whole rainbow!

One stop shopping sound appealing? Check out our Turner Dress Kits here!

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Burgundy Kit // Navy & White Kit // Leopard Kit // Coral & Navy Kit

We can’t wait to see what you make! Be sure to share your Turner Dresses using #TurnerDress on social media!


Cashmerette
November 18, 2016

Turner Dress Inspiration

The Turner Dress is a classic skater silhouette, which is one of our favorite shapes for everyday wear. It is such a versatile look, and each dress can be styled for a casual day, an office day, or a night out!

Here are some of our favorite skater style dresses from around the web.

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Solid colors and neutral patterns make for versatile dresses, easy to dress up or down. I love the subtle textures in these textiles!

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Add a little edge to your look with a bright dress and leather jacket, channel the 90’s with plaid, or go sporty with a rich solid and sneakers!

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Why not embellish your Turner to make it truly your own? The neckline beading on velvet is a great holiday option as well!

We can’t wait to see what you make with the Turner Dress pattern! Next time, we’ll be sharing some fabric ideas as well!


Cashmerette

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