Auburn Blazer


Size Size guide

Pattern format

Finally, a blazer that fits curves! Experience the joy of a classic lined blazer designed specifically for a full bust. Say goodbye to blazers that don’t button up, or are hugely oversized at the shoulders—with our C-H cup sizes and thoughtful design, we have the perfect blazer for curves.

The Cashmerette Auburn Blazer features sleek princess seams, a sophisticated notched collar, and a single button closure. Complete the look with angled welt pockets and two-piece vented sleeves, or go for a cropped length and a clean sleeve finish. Whether sewn in a woven, stretch woven, or stable knit, the Auburn is sure to add polish to your wardrobe and style.

This Cashmerette pattern includes:

  • Cup sizes from C to H
  • A “full bicep” sleeve option
  • A sizing calculator which will tell you exactly which size to make
  • A beautifully illustrated and detailed instruction booklet, to guide you no matter your sewing level
  • A full photo sewalong on our blog with tips and techniques that go beyond the instruction booklet

Product information




12 to 32, in three cup sizes (C/D, E/F, G/H)—includes 40-62” bust and 42–62” hip. Find your size in seconds using our size calculator.


Main fabric for woven blazer: Mid- to heavy-weight wovens, such as suiting or tweed, made from wool, linen, or wool blends. Lightweight coating also suitable. Avoid fabrics with a very smooth surface like gabardine, as they will likely shine when pressed.

Main fabric for stretch blazer: Mid- to heavy-weight knit fabric such as stable ponte, or mid-weight stretch wovens such as stretch suiting.

Body lining: If using a non-stretch woven, use a light- weight woven lining such as rayon bemberg or crepe de chine. If using a stretch woven or ponte, use a knit lining for the body, such as ITY or other slick jersey.

Sleeve lining: Light-weight woven lining such as rayon bemberg or or crepe de chine, for both stretch & non-stretch blazers.

Pocket lining: Stable woven such as quilting cotton or shirting.

Interfacing: Mid-weight weft fusible interfacing and mid- weight knit fusible interfacing. Optional: use heavier weight interfacing for pocket welt; fusible horsehair canvas can be used for chest shield interfacing.


Universal (for non-stretch) or stretch needle, hand sewing needle, thread

View A: 2 ⅜ yd (2.2 m) of 1 – 1 ½” (2.5 – 3.8 cm) wide bias tape (homemade) or ⅝” – ¾” (1.5 – 1.9 cm) wide single fold bias tape (store bought)

View B: ½ yd (0.5 m) of 1 – 1 ½” (2.5 – 3.8 cm) wide bias tape (homemade) or ⅝” – ¾” (1.5 – 1.9 cm) wide single fold bias tape (store bought)

One 1 – 1 1⁄4” button (center front), six ½” – ⅝” buttons (sleeve vents) for View A only.

Shoulder pads (⅜”/1 cm – ½”/12 mm thick). Rounded jacket/blazer shoulder pads are best and are typically around 6.5” (16.5 cm) by 4” (10.2 cm).

Straight grain fusible stabilizing tape (Alternatively, if your interfacing has a direction with NO stretch, even mechanical, you can cut a ½” strip along the direction with no stretch.)

Customer Reviews

Based on 8 reviews
Marvelous Pattern

I made the Auburn blazer in a traditional woven fabric from Myanmar. There were many challenges using this fabric including difficult pattern matching due to handwoven irregular patterns, fraying tendency, and general softness. The constant beautiful fit and excellent instructions of this pattern helped create a unique blazer for my sister-in-law. She is the adopted grandma to a Chin family here in Michigan and will wear this jacket to celebrations with them.
This exquisite pattern is drafted well. The sleeves went in without a pucker on the first try-a moment of sewing happiness.
The fit is crazy good, instructions very thorough and finished project was very professional.

Hope Murray
Great Blazer!!

I love the pattern. I made a toille and then I made the blazer. It's incredibly detailed which, in my opinion, gives each maker not only the ability to make a fab blazer, but also allows you to decide which of those details you want. For instance, I made the full blazer. Every step. I interfaced every piece, cut every notch, etc. But for my next blazer (Fall sewing), I'm actually going to make one in a linen that only has interfacing at the hems and in areas of stress. I was also surprised at how much I appreciated the shoulder pads. I was never really a fan, but as soon as I sewed them in, the professional look of the suit really sharpened up. I used a fun fabric (green with owls) and I tried to pattern match as much as possible. Sometimes I was successful :) Thanks for a great pattern and for all of the detailed blog posts.

Roz G
Never made a blazer before!

I am a totally self taught sewer but I decided to give the Auburn Blazer a go because I had used many Cashmerette patterns and found them all easy to make. I used the sew along and went at my own pace. The instructions and photos were so helpful and easy to follow I was always eager to get back to it. Even the welt pockets (mine are not perfect) were easy to do and overall the blazer is a great fit and I am very happy with it. Give it a go I’m sure you will surprised at how easy and achievable a great fitting blazer is to sew.


My first selfmade blazer is a great success. I really love the fit. With the instructions and sew along the sewing was really straight forward.
Now I'm looking for the right fabric for the next

Samantha Pope
Versatile as a block for a full bust to design from.

My first Auburn Blazer was inspired by a 1960’s couture jacket. I modified the Auburn size 18 G/H cup to suit my needs. I chose the Auburn because of the option of a G cup and from previous experience with other Cashmerette patterns I knew the fit would be 95% perfect for my particular shape first time. It was and my alterations were made easy. I used cotton sateen, I changed the collar, added a back yoke and patch pockets and made bound buttonholes.