And here it is, slightly neater (my fusible-removing technique improved) in the sleeve. Note that I took about 1.5 inches out, because it wasn’t just the seam allowance that was puckering, it was the area just outside of it too.
And here are the results. Before: ick.
After: WOOHOO! (I hope you appreciate the no-makeup, overhead lighting, wet towel bathroom shot. The things I do for you, readers).
Next up, I re-set the sleeve, and won’t you just look at that. It’s not perfect. But my god is it better. The main issue now is that the upper side bodice (above the dart) is a little wavy with all the fusible-ripping-out. I’ve tried steaming it but there’s only so flat it wants to go. Next step is going to be to sew in some hair canvas and see if that can stabilize it. But to be honest at this point it’s not particularly noticeable.