The Willowdale Bra is available in PDF only and includes all sizes (28C-54J).
Feel secure, supported, and self-assured in a Willowdale Bra! The Willowdale is a full frame underwire bra with a 4-piece cup design for vital support and lift in a beautifully rounded shape.
The Willowdale is designed specially for larger busts (with over 120 sizes to help you get the perfect fit) and includes full lace and half lace options for low- to no-stretch fabrics. The stretch lace upper cup molds to your boobs' unique shape and accommodates differences in boob size.
View A has a stretch lace upper cup and solid body, while View B features an all-over lace design with an optional decorative lace edge on the bottom band. Both views include lined cups with enclosed seams, a power mesh back and adjustable straps.
Created by curvy sewing experts and bra-making professionals, you can trust the Willowdale to look magnificent while supporting you all day long.
This Cashmerette pattern includes:
- 14 band sizes (28-54) and 9 cup sizes (C-J) for 126 separate sizes
- Step-by-step instructions for choosing your ideal bra size
- A beautifully illustrated and detailed instruction booklet to guide you no matter your sewing level
- Bra making resources and our bra fitting guide available on our blog
Want step-by-step help making your bra? Check out our online workshop Willowdale Bra Sewalong where Jenny Rushmore and Jennifer Fairbanks take you through the whole process with confidence!
Band sizes 28 to 54 and cup sizes C, D, DD, E, F, G, H, I, and J; includes full bust 31"-65" (79-165 cm) and underbust 28"-55" (72-142 cm).
Note: Cashmerette bra sizing is calculated in a different way to standard Cashmerette garment sizing. Your Cashmerette bra size may also be different from your ready-to-wear bra size. Use the bra size guide (also included in the Willowdale pattern instructions) to determine your ideal starting size.
The Willowdale Bra can be made using the same fabric for the main and lining, or it can be lined using a lighter weight lining fabric with similar stretch properties. Consult the pattern's instruction booklet for the specific elastic and notions needed for your bra size.
Main fabric & lining: Lightweight fabric with low stretch (Maximum 20% in one direction only, also known as 2 way stretch), such as low stretch 40 denier nylon tricot or a low stretch poly/lycra fabric. This results in good support with some flexibility and is easier to fit.
Back band: Mid-weight stretch fabric with up to 50% stretch, such as nylon/spandex power mesh.
Lace: Stretch lace with at least 20% stretch, with decorative edging (scallops), at least 6” (15 cm) wide for view A, and at least 8” (20 cm) wide for view B.
- Plush back band elastic (½" or ¾" depending on size) with optional picot edge
- Plush back underarm elastic (3/8" or ½") with optional picot edge
- Strap elastic (½" or ¾" depending on size)
- Hook & eye closure (3 or 4 rows depending on size)
- 2 rings and sliders (½" or ¾" depending on size)
- Underwire channeling
- Pair of rounded, regular underwires
- Universal needle and thread
- Optional: Lingerie bow
Spray fabric adhesive (View B - optional), tailor’s ham or rolled up towel, walking foot for sewing machine (optional), press cloth.
PDF pattern information
New to PDF sewing patterns? See our complete guide here.
The PDF comes in separate file sizes for each band/cup size, so you only need to print your size. You'll receive files to print at home or at a copy shop. Files are delivered as a .zip file which can be downloaded on a computer, but not on a mobile device. For more on PDFs, see the FAQs.
Instructions: 28 pages (17 MB)
Print at home file (for each size): 3-8 pages (0.2 MB each)
A0 file (for each size): 1 page (0.2 MB each)
Rachel (pink & black) is wearing a size 38H. Her measurements are 47" full bust and 37.5" underbust.
Brittany (floral & white) is wearing a size 30G. Her measurements are 38" full bust and 30" underbust.
- Willowdale Bra Fitting Guide
- How to choose your Willowdale size
- How to sew a test bra
- How to adjust the back band
- How to adjust the gore/bridge
- How to adjust bra cups
- How to adjust the side seam angle
- How to adjust the straps
- How to adjust the underwires
- How to make an asymmetrical bra
- How to sew a no-lace Willowdale
Fabric Requirements & Measurements
This pattern is very well written and explained. The bra making process is overwhelming to begin, but the directions walk you through every step of the way. I also purchased the Willowdale bra making course which was very helpful. One thing worth noting is that bra making requires a lot of trial and error. I am on my 4th toile now and am getting close to a good fit. Sizing seems true to size (though keep in mind many women wear the wrong bra size because bra sizing is a confusing mess) so definitely confirm size with measurements.
I bought the Willowdale bra some time ago and have to admit to being a bit daunted by the whole idea of making an underwired bra.
Having watched Jenny’s introduction to bra making I decided to get straight on with the kit as a wearable toile.
I recently bought a kit in the UK designed for the Willowdale which helped a lot as then I only had to buy the underwires.
Selecting these was fairly straightforward too as there are really easy to follow instructions with the pattern.
The next big thing was joining the Cashmerette Club in order to access the Willowdale bra Masterclass, which is excellent. With that, the feedback and support on line, and the access to the fabulous club patterns, I feel like I’ve had my money’s worth already…
I have taken three days over my first
Willowdale, following the instructions carefully- they are very clear and there’s a test bra sew along too.
All was reasonably straightforward. I still made a few mistakes, but these were completely down to my mistakes not the instructions. They were relatively easy to sort out as the kit had more fabric etc than I needed.
When I inserted the underwires they were approximately 20mm too long so my husband trimmed them down and used Araldite to make new rounded ends on them for me so they would fit. I need to look into this a little more to see what I didn’t have quite right. They were a different type of underwire because I’m in the UK.
So today was the big day, wires in final stitching and ribbon on. Time to try on.
I couldn’t believe that it fitted! Not perfectly, but so much more comfortable and well fitting than ready to wear.
I’m a convert and can’t wait to make the next one and a swimsuit and bikinis and and….
It’s a lovely shape and feel under dresses etc and surprisingly smooth under t shirts. The cut is a bit low for working around the house and garden so I need to work on a fuller cup more supportive version, something closer to a sports bra.
I also need to sort out the underwire issue.
Overall though the suggested sizing was excellent, though a much larger cup than my ready to wear bras. I thought it would be too large, but it’s almost perfect. The straps don’t fall down and I don’t fall out even when I bend down.
I just can’t say how pleased I am.
First of all, I did not make a muslin as suggested. I measured carefully and just made the bra from a kit. That was the easiest and cheapest option for me. I wanted to see if I actually liked the sewing. The bra is wearable, but it still needs to be adjusted. It is a little snug, and the cups are too small. I plan on making the whole thing one size bigger (sister size) and adjusting the band size down slightly. For some unknown reason, the underwire size size suggested for the bra was too small and did not fit. Fortunately, I purchased one size up and one size down in underwires and had a smaller size in my possession. I may have taken larger seams than I had intended. However, I am a quilter and am very experienced with scant 1/4" seams. I will be even more careful next time. I am wondering if the fact that I stabilized the front cradle made a difference??? All in all, it fits as well or better than some commercial bras that I have purchased. I am not sure that this will be an every day bra for me. The use of stretch fabrics, while helpful in fitting, might not provide enough support in the front to avoid spillage. I'm going to work on making the right size and then omitting the lace on the top of the cup.
This pattern makes a beautiful bra. However, because the front straps are so far to the outside of the body, where the front of the bra attaches to the strap digs into the flesh when I bring my arms forward. I'm hoping alterations will do the trick, but the second iteration just a little improvement.
I enjoyed the technical challenge of this project. The instructions were great and really walked me through supply purchasing which was the most daunting part. I didn't make a muslin as recommended but try #1 is wearable. I'll definitely use this pattern again with some tweaks.