Webster Top & Dress
I am making more Webster tops!
My first “official” non-muslin Webster is a woven cotton that may be a little stiff for the pattern, but still makes me happy. Really like the back straps and V neck of this top. Loved the all in one, pull through facing technique- and if you are in the burrito yoke facing, seam finishing phase of life this pattern is SO satisfying.
Made some changes based on a toile. Added length as I am almost six feet tall, raised the back V by two inches at the seam, tapering to original shoulder. Next one will drop the dart slightly. Also did a version of the flat butt adjustment by removing the swing from the back middle seam below the waist.
Had a fight with my serger after I chunked out the bust edge of the facing; repaired by trimming off the edges of bust and back facings and using a Hong Kong finish. It is SO beautiful that I will definitely use that finish for the next Webster top.
Made size 20 C/D, but next one will be in a lighter floatier fabric. Love this pattern.
On a construction and practical level, this is another fabulous pattern from Cashmerette. I've been sewing since I was a kid and am in my 60's now, yet I love learning new techniques from Jenny and Cashmerette. I made wearable muslins in both the Webster dress and top versions. The pattern does have a tremendous amount of design ease built in and that probably was a factor in the fit issues. I tried sizing down two sizes, but was still much bigger on me than was flattering. I ended up just doing a major alteration on the garments , taking in the shoulders, shoulder length and width of garments throughout.
I did, afterwards, see a blog article where Jenny described how to make the garment more streamlined. And now with the high bust measurment to help with size choice that would make a difference as well. But the bottom line for me is that perhaps this pattern just isn't for me. Many women, I'm sure, would love the flowy design ease in this garment. I love the back of the garment and will probably work with the pattern and hack it with another Cashmerette pattern, keeping that fabulous back of the Webster.
On a side note, I used to only buy the printed patterns, but am a convert to the PDF which allows me to reprint pieces as needed. As I learn which sizes and grading suits me best, it's lovely to just go back and reprint the new size. The taping together of the pattern pieces is well worth the effort to me.
I have purchased several cashmerette patterns and they have all fit without any adjustment. I am a customer for life. I am planning to take the jeans class too.
The first version of the Webster top I made was a straight size 18. The instructions were clear and the only fiddly bit was fixing the cross straps at the back. I found it to be too wide across the shoulders so I sized down to a 16 around the neck and shoulders for the second version but kept the bust and hip to the original size 18. In both cases I used a drapey rayon style fabric - I can't say exactly because I was using up fabric which is years old and belonged originally to my MIL.
I added another cross strap to the back of my second version to make it look a little different. It is a relatively straightforward pattern which can be made in a variety of fabrics (as long as they are not too stiff) and so could look formal or casual.
Jenny gives excellent instructions for this dress which has lovely features and is, as always, excellently drafted. Truth be told, I’ve stopped sewing patterns from other companies. Now all I need is some Cashmerette separates (a few woven skirt options, a cardigan, sweater and a winter coat), and I’m set for life!