Webster Top & Dress
I buy a UK size 16 normally but using the size calculator it said a size 10 top, size 18 waist and a 14 hip. Impossible to do. So much paper!
Hi Pauline! If you're between sizes (which is super common), you can 'Grade Between Sizes' to make the pattern the size you need. You can learn more at cashmerette.com/grading, or if you'd like personalized help don't hesitate to email us at firstname.lastname@example.org!
I sewed the dress and will admit didn’t make it for a long time because I didn’t think the lack of waist definition was my style. However, I really loved the cross v back detail and so when I was looking for a nightdress pattern to make in satin, I finally chose the Webster. Well I am converted now! The extra ease makes a comfortable wear in bed but I still feel it has a touch of glamour about it. I graded from 18 at shoulders to 20 bust and 22 hips then did a 2” fba on top of the G/H cup based on the excellent Cashmerette sizing calculator. This is bang on fit wise! I find Cashmerette pattern drafting is very high quality and this pattern was no exception. I am planning more dress versions for nightdresses and slips and also some top versions as outer garments now too. I may try using a bias strip to finish neckline next time, but only because it is my personal preference where possible.
I made the pattern without any adjustments. The fit was very good. I consider this garment my muslin, even though I made it out of fabric that I can wear. I will make some minor adjustments in the neckline, but otherwise this is the BEST fitting pattern I have ever sewn.
I am making more Webster tops!
My first “official” non-muslin Webster is a woven cotton that may be a little stiff for the pattern, but still makes me happy. Really like the back straps and V neck of this top. Loved the all in one, pull through facing technique- and if you are in the burrito yoke facing, seam finishing phase of life this pattern is SO satisfying.
Made some changes based on a toile. Added length as I am almost six feet tall, raised the back V by two inches at the seam, tapering to original shoulder. Next one will drop the dart slightly. Also did a version of the flat butt adjustment by removing the swing from the back middle seam below the waist.
Had a fight with my serger after I chunked out the bust edge of the facing; repaired by trimming off the edges of bust and back facings and using a Hong Kong finish. It is SO beautiful that I will definitely use that finish for the next Webster top.
Made size 20 C/D, but next one will be in a lighter floatier fabric. Love this pattern.
On a construction and practical level, this is another fabulous pattern from Cashmerette. I've been sewing since I was a kid and am in my 60's now, yet I love learning new techniques from Jenny and Cashmerette. I made wearable muslins in both the Webster dress and top versions. The pattern does have a tremendous amount of design ease built in and that probably was a factor in the fit issues. I tried sizing down two sizes, but was still much bigger on me than was flattering. I ended up just doing a major alteration on the garments , taking in the shoulders, shoulder length and width of garments throughout.
I did, afterwards, see a blog article where Jenny described how to make the garment more streamlined. And now with the high bust measurment to help with size choice that would make a difference as well. But the bottom line for me is that perhaps this pattern just isn't for me. Many women, I'm sure, would love the flowy design ease in this garment. I love the back of the garment and will probably work with the pattern and hack it with another Cashmerette pattern, keeping that fabulous back of the Webster.
On a side note, I used to only buy the printed patterns, but am a convert to the PDF which allows me to reprint pieces as needed. As I learn which sizes and grading suits me best, it's lovely to just go back and reprint the new size. The taping together of the pattern pieces is well worth the effort to me.